Wednesday 18 June 2014

Tchau Brasil. Muito obrigado.


I put on the gloves


when I was 9.


They showed me the world.




June 18th: Sorry Neymar + Yes, I am playing in the World Cup

Last Day of Class 
This adventure in Brasil has come to an end. It has been an honour and a privilege to spend time in this wonderful country with it's welcoming people. I encountered the 'Brasilian way' of people trying to understand and help me. A complete stranger gave me a kiss on the cheek for trying to speak Portuguese. Another offered to take me to watch Atlético next time I am here. Yet another invited me to join him with his running club. Every day brought something new. I've loved it all.

It's been my pleasure to teach this class and the students have made it a success. So thanks to Cristina, Alex, Jessie, Seb, Mike, Shalla, Mark, Tais, and Annalise. Thanks also to Gabriela for basically organizing everything. Thanks to Duncan, Nima, and Paloma for welcoming us into Cheer For Peace and for the good work they do. Last but not least, thanks the kids in the favelas who let us play with them.

Dusculpe Neymar
This is a link to a song doing the rounds about why some Brasileiros are not supporting the seleção. It has English subtitles. It captures what I am feeling right now. I still love soccer and the games in this tournament, but want to make sure I don't lose sight of the bigger picture.


And Finally... You Might Enjoy This
I went to the pharmacy today. Pretty routine you may think, but everything is behind the counter, so you have to ask... which means using Portuguese, because few people speak English (understandable given we are not in an English speaking country). 

Feeling de-mob happy and slightly more confident in my "Portuguese" than usual, I abandoned my normal opening line ("Fala Ingles?") and went with my mangled version of the language. Both ladies behind the counter engaged me in conversation, which I followed perfectly I thought. They were particularly interested and enthused by my mere presence in their store. 

I walked away feeling pretty pleased with myself for carrying a conversation and on how nice Brasileiros can be. "Wow" I thought, congratulating myself wholeheartedly, "Only 3 weeks and I can actually have a conversation." I followed this up with "my sparkling personality probably shone through as well." Yep, I was pretty pleased with myself.

About 25 minutes later I reflected on why these two ladies were so engaged with me. Perhaps it was not my language skills and sparkling personality? Then it hit me. They had asked me if I was a 'jogador,' to which I replied, very confidently, that I was indeed here for the World Cup. Jogador means player. Yes, I told them I was here as a player in the World Cup.


On the one hand, I was disappointed that I completely misunderstood my 'best' conversation in Portuguese. On the other hand, I was elated they thought I looked young and fit enough to be a player. Eat it Pirlo.



Tuesday 17 June 2014

June 17#2: Shooting at Vila Torres

Right now, Brazil are playing Mexico. I've just spent an hour walking around taking in the atmosphere. Most of the shops were closed and people were congregating in the bars and squares to watch the game. There is a lot of excitement and noise. Firecrackers echo around the building and smell of gunpowder filled the air.

Sadly, the the smell of gunpowder was in the air at Vila Torres last night. Just 24 hours after we finished our Freedom Through Football/Cheer For Peace event in that favela there was a drive-by shooting. A van with no licence plates drove through the neighborhood and one of the passengers opened fire with a machine gun. Four people were shot. One person survived, but two died and a third remains in critical condition.

It's a reminder of the constant stress and challenges the people, and the kids, in these communities face.




June 17: Riots and Student Blogs #2

Riot in Curitiba
There was a riot in Curitiba yesterday. A small group of the violent protesters (who have, allegedly, been travelling around Brazil instigating trouble) tried to block a bus route to the game, tried to march toward the stadium, then smashed up a few buildings including my HSBC bank (although, who hasn't been tempted to smash the windows at their bank?). Despite the fact that it was a few blocks from my apartment and close to where I walked to the game, I knew nothing of it until I watched the nightly news. And even then it was the fourth or fifth item! I would describe this is a mini-riot. It would never happen in association with a sporting event in Canada. No, not on Whyte Avenue in 2006 or Vancouver in 2011. Oh...

Students' Blogs #2
In other news, the students have now written their second blogs for my course. Links below. Enjoy.






Finally... Brazil play tonight. I can guarantee one thing about the game. There will be fireworks. 

Monday 16 June 2014

June 16: Iran vs Nigeria

Went to my first World Cup game. First my in-depth analysis, then a few photos.

Quality of Experience: 10/10
Great atmosphere, good mix of fans, great to be there. Loved the Eu Sou Brasileiro song - goose bump giving. Click here for an example (not a video I took). 

Quality of Game: 0/10
It was SHOCKING. Brazilians cheered for Nigeria for 60 minutes, at which point they started booing them. Best chant: "Segundo division" over and over. It means second division, which says it all.

Team Iran hotel pre-game:
Not quite sure how I ended up here, but I know the guy with the lime green mohawk. Apparently some of these people are with the Iranian team delegation, but I am not totally convinced I understood that correctly.



Lots of armed military police by the Iran team hotel for some reason. Their main job involved giving directions to the stadium (by saying 'la' [there] and pointing. Oh, not with their guns, pointing with their fingers).



Arena da Baixada
Very impressive btw, mostly finished, with fresh cement dust on all the seats, which I wiped off before sitting of course. Toilets near me were functioning perfectly pre-game but, rather worryingly, were out of service before half-time. Despite this, one pertinent observation I noted was that it was a very nice smelling stadium. A lovely mix of deodorant, perfume, and the sweet nectar of beer on people's breath. 



Crowd
Gentleman in the first row appears somewhat less enthusiastic than some other crowd members. Note that popcorn was available. Also, look at the empty seats and note how uneven they are. Bit like the shelves I put up in our old house.



'Fan Fest' Area (or Corporate Sponsor stuff section, if you prefer)
R$8 for a bottle of water, but you get a hard plastic cup to keep (maybe the water cost R$1 and the cup R$7?) You have to pour your drinks into the cup because, apparently, a plastic bottle of R$8 water is too tempting to use as a missile. Still, it was cheaper than an Oilers game (did I mention the free cup?)



Sunday 15 June 2014

June 15: Vila Torres Favela

Today we visited the Vila Torres Favela in Curitiba. We were helping out with an event organized by a group called Cheer For Peace. It was a day of music, food, street art, and soccer in one of the poorest areas of the city.

Below is a photo I took during the event. I labelled it 'classic favela scene.'












It was a great event. We gave out the shirts and balls we brought from Canada, and every kid got something. 




None of us are under the illusion that providing a really good day for these kids is going to change their lives. In fact, I am personally quite critical of the claims made by many 'sport-for-development' types of organizations. The community has problems with lack of funding, drugs, and violence that a day playing soccer is never going to solve. But a good day is probably a break from the stress of living in this community. Check out this link for a good article on some of these challenges and the potential for positive change in Brazil. It's written by Duncan Crowley, one of the guys I've met out here.

Anyway, back to my day at the favela. I have not really 'processed' the things I saw, so what follows is just a random list of observations. Make of them what you will.

Today was the only time since I have been in Brazil I felt concerned for my safety and the safety of my students. Nothing bad happened at all, but I guarantee there is no way I would walk around that neighborhood on my own, night or day.

Many of these kids have absolutely nothing. When we went to the 'nice' favela last week, a couple of kids played soccer (on their nice turf field with their British volunteer coaches) barefoot. I was told this was just a matter of choice, that these kids preferred playing barefoot. Today kids were playing barefoot on a dirty road full of litter and glass. This wasn't their choice - lots of them only had flip flops, which come flying off when you try to kick. So playing barefoot was a necessity.

A man told me that although he had no education, his daughter was studying at PUC (a private university) to be an engineer. She had received some funding through a government program. PUC is about 2 blocks from the favela, but in reality it could be a million miles away for most of these kids.

I was playing soccer with one kid when we arrived. Just kicking the ball back and forth, like I (very occasionally) do with Josie. I can't explain why - it was something to do with how we were interacting - but I just kept thinking that this boy doesn't have many male 'role models' in his life. I'm no role model of course.

I loved watching my students interact with the kids. The women seems to attract lots of little girls (and, I noticed, one gentlemen in search of romance). The men were often 'covered' in children hanging off them and, on several occasions, simply punching them (all in good fun, but I did hear one of our students say "I don't know how to make them stop"). Pretty great. I prefer to stay on the sidelines at these types of things, and it was a joy to see the students getting stuck in.

Which brings me back to the point that going to a favela for a day won't change these kids lives. But you know what? It might change some of our lives, some of the things we do, and maybe we go on to do good things we wouldn't have done otherwise.

Saturday 14 June 2014

June 13 and 14

Just a brief update here. Pretty quiet after Brazil win in opening game. I've been enjoying a couple of days off (no class). 

Went up to the Arena be Baixada today. It's kinda finished, but there are lots of people working - on a Saturday. My sense is the stadium itself is OK. It's all the FIFA-mandated crap that is not finished - the 'exclusion zone' and fencing, the special entrances (they are not allowed to use the normal entrances). My favourite thing was seeing the metal detectors and baggage x-ray machines still in bubble wrap.

There is more security around the stadium than at Sao Paulo customs. My entry into Brazil was based on this conversation:

Me: HO-LA [handing over passport]
Customs Agent: [Silence]
Me: [Silence]
Customs Agent: You go how?
Me: Cupo de Mundo
Customs Agent: You know where [to] stamp [on passport]?
Me: Just put it on this page [reaching through hole in glass to open passport to random page]
Customs Agent: Obrigada. Tchau
Me: Thanks

Some important news is that I HAVE NOT MISSED A GAME YET....(although I only caught the second half of Mexico x Cameroon).

Enjoyed Spain getting hammered by Holland. Important factual tidbit: Robin van Persie's son is named Shaqueel. Yep, Shaqueel van Persie. They call him Shaq, obviously.

Looking forward to England x Italy tonight. Look for the following highlights (note, this is all written before the game):

  • Gerrard booming 50 yard 'passes' into the stands
  • Rooney mis-controlling the ball 9 times out of 10
  • Pirlo's beard
  • Hart having kittens
  • Pirlo's beard
  • Glen Johnson looking a little confused by it all
  • Lots of sweating
  • At least one Everton playing netmegging someone (ideally an Italian player). My money is on Baines sometime in first half.

Hope they bring on Barkley... With Jagielka, Baines, and Barkley on the field how can they lose?

Just about to settle in for Columbia x Greece. Tomorrow we have this event thing at a favela in town. It's becoming a pretty big deal and I'll have photos etc up either tomorrow night or Monday morning. For now, make do with the flyer.


Thursday 12 June 2014

Day 12: Brazil Win! Rapping Nun and Fireworks (Video)

Pretty exciting day with Brazil playing opening game.

Pre-Game: A Rapping Nun




Fireworks after Neymar scored the big second goal







It seems many of the fireworks were fired from balconies in apartment buildings, which seems a perfectly sensible thing for people to do under the circumstances. 

Those bloody vuvuzelas have made their way here from South Africa.





Wednesday 11 June 2014

Day 12: Favela Visit #1


Today we visited a soccer program at a favela on the outskirts of Curitiba. It's run out of a local church by the pastor, who was formerly a professional player. There is a partnership with a non-profit based in the UK called Lionsraw. Lionsraw provide lots of 'guest coaches' who are volunteers (from UK, US, and France while we were there). 

We watched training, had a game against the older kids, gave the kids some jerseys, and gave some shirts, balls, and boots to the kids/ program. I'll let the photos do the talking today.

The favela



View of Training 




This one speaks for itself


Canadian Students Joined in With Practice



We also had a game... video in next post.

Brasil Overpowered: Canada Unbeaten Since 1994

The Big Game at the Favela
The Canadian (Adults) beat the Brasilian (Kids) 3-2 ish, preserving Canada's unbeaten run against Brasil since the 1-1 tie at Commonwealth Stadium, Edmonton, in 1994.

I made this little video of the game. See if you can spot the Canadians.






Song: Feelin' Good, The Sheepdogs

Tuesday 10 June 2014

Video: I Have Seen Soccer in Curitiba. Not What I Expected... Not at all.

I was walking home last night just as it was getting dark. As the shadows became more sinister, I tightened the straps on my backpack, kept my head down, and tried to glide unobtrusively through the crowd.

I glanced to my right. "Soccer... people playing soccer." My brain registered this fact slowly. It was indeed some people playing soccer. The first soccer I have seen in the city. Excitedly, with the sweaty palms of Welsh-Canadian in 98% humidity, I grabbed my IPhone out of my bag and trotted over to the futsal court.

"Hey, there's even a couple of girls playing" I noted as my pace increased. "And it's in this futsal court right in the middle of the square that has a few dodgy characters" I reflected. 

As the players come into view I noted "That tall girl with the blond ponytail looks very North America." Then I realized... "Bloody hell, those are the students from my class." 

They had started a kick about and then some of the locals starting joining in. They must have been there for nearly 2 hours (I am a good judge of the amount it time it takes to accumulate a certain amount of sweat stain). 

It was awesome (I would go as far as to say it was awesome sauce). Just one of those moments. I'm not sure if I've done it justice. Just try to picture it - bunch of Canadians playing soccer in a dodgy town square as it's getting dark, two days before the World Cup FINALS. 

To help you, I shot this little video. See if you can pick out my students. Way to go guys!


Post game photo:


Day 11: Lull Before the Storm and A Bit of History

Seems like there is a bit of a lull today (the lull before the storm?). Brazil play the opening game on Thursday in São Paulo, where there are some problems arising from the transit workers' strike. As one activist put it yesterday "this is the perfect time to strike because the eyes of the world are on us."

Here in Curitiba things are strangely quiet today. Yesterday was different - fireworks every few minutes all morning. But today, quiet. And a very strong police presence in the streets of the city centre.

I have seen more visiting fans in the streets the past two days. A few Nigeria fans mainly, and of course some random Australians - they really are everywhere, not just in Canmore. 

The Curitiba police must be having a bit of a 'clean up' campaign because many homeless people (not the Australians) from the city centre have suddenly 'migrated' to my neighborhood. 

Anyway, today is a good day for a quick primer on the history of soccer.

Ancient History of Ball Games
Sepp Blatter, President of FIFA, humanitarian, and all-round good egg, once said this:

“Football is as old as the world… People have always played some form of football, from its very basic form of kicking a ball around to the game it is today.” (Sepp Blatter, quoted in Goldblatt, 2006, p. 3)

Now, Sepp also once said this:


“We honour the Chinese people for their country’s role as the cradle of the earliest forms of football, having firmly planted the roots of our sport and helping set the course for it to grow into the beautiful game it is today.” (quoted in Goldblatt, 2006, p. 5)


Although it may appear that Sepp has contradicted himself (or maybe changed his message for his audience - a bit like with the Qatar bid), he's not totally incorrect.

There was an ancient ball game in during the Chinese Han dynasty (200 BCE - Before Common Era) called 'cuju' (kick-ball). 


Cuju (Source: Wikipedia Commons).

BUT, competitive ball games were a feature of many societies in the ancient world. Here are some examples:

•Japan
–Kemari - 600 Common Era (CE)
•Malaysia/Thailand
–Sepak raga/sepak takraw (‘kick-ball’), 1500s
•Roman
–Harpastum (‘small ball game’) 300 BCE-400 CE

Perhaps the oldest game is Marn Grook, which was played by some of the Aboriginal peoples in Australia: 


Marn Grook (Source: Wikipedia Commons)

Of course, many of us know the story of how the official laws of football were written in England as a way of codifying (and controlling) the mass 'folk football' games played across the country. So, soccer as we know it today was created in modern history, but has its roots in ancient history

Sidenote for the history buffs: The laws were first written during a series of meetings in the fall of 1863 at the Freemason's Tavern, London, England.


I just think it's important to recognize that, while the rules were written in England and those rules exported by the English colonialists, versions of competitive ball games pre-dated the English rules.

So, maybe what Sepp could have said is this:

“The sphere is as old as the world. Kicking is as old as humanity. The Ancients knew the ball, but football is born of modernity
–(Goldblatt, 2006, p. 18)

(Endnote: Quite a few ideas in this blog are based on Goldblatt's 2006 book "The Ball is Round: A Global History of Soccer").

Monday 9 June 2014

Day 10: No to Soccer, Yes to... Cricket?

If you have been following the blog since the start of my trip, not only are you a glutton for punishment, you will have also be aware of my views about how young players in Brazil are developed. For new readers, I'll recap: Young kids from the favelas play futsal until the most technically proficient are picked up by clubs aged 11.  

But you know what I have not seen in the Curitiba yet? Kids playing any football. That's right... 10 days in Brazil, in a city that is a World Cup venue, and no kids playing football. 

OK, so I haven't been to a favela yet. But I've seen loads of (empty) outdoor futsal fields. At first I thought it was because I am staying in the city centre and the kids are in school during the day (and no-one goes out after 6pm when it gets dark due to safety concerns). But on Sunday I took a 3hr bus tour around the city. We went through most of the major 'suburbs.' I passed more than 10 futsal fields, plus at least 10 other grassy or dirt areas with goalposts, and did not see one kid playing any type of soccer. I see more kids playing soccer in Canada (and I'm not talking organized soccer here - I mean pick-up games).

I did see kids playing another sport. And you wouldn't believe me if I had not managed to take this photo:





It's CRICKET. In Brasil. Yes, CRICKET IN BRAZIL. 

According to the always impeccably accurate and trustworthy internet (specifically, wikipedia):

In Curitiba the focus has been on teaching children aged 8–12. The Associaçao Brasileira de Cricket employed a local junior development officer/coach for three years, and the success of the programme, which works with about 300 kids at four schools, was recognized by the ICC through the Volunteer of the Year Award presented to Norman Baldwin and to the programme itself for Best Junior Development Programme. This ongoing programme provided the platform for a very successful U13s tournament held in July 2009 in Curitiba, played between Argentina, the eventual winners, Chile and Brazil.

So no to soccer, but yes to cricket... what is happening?

Well, the obvious answer is social class. I've heard "it's only the kids in the favelas who play football." Parents' concerns about their children's safety also play into it, because they do not want their children to spend time outdoors unsupervised. 

This is probably a good time to mention that, according to a 2014 study, about 20% of Brazilian children are overweight or obese. This is an increasing problem as urbanization accelerates and and socioeconomic conditions improve across several Latin American countries. Interestingly, one of our guest speakers (Alessandro Brita from CAP) said that he finds it increasingly difficult to scout young players because of problems with sedentary behavior and increasing levels of overweight/obesity.

And for the football nerds, it's time for you to go on the internet and figure out how Kaka became a footballer.


Sunday 8 June 2014

Day 9: The Students' First Blogs

The students in my class have to write a weekly blog as part of the course assignment. They are really good. Please check them out. Links below.

Link to Christina's blog

Link to Jessie's blog

Link to Annalise's blog


Link to Mark's blog

Link to Mike's blog

Link to Shalla's blog

Saturday 7 June 2014

Day 8: Your Kids Don't Play for the Furacão

Many of you will have seen the image below that was doing the rounds on Twitter last year. Pretty great.



I've discovered that being a 'bad' sport parent is something soccer organizations in Brazil have to deal with too.

We had a talk yesterday from Ricardo Silva from Clube Atlético Paranaense. He is in charge of their soccer school franchises and social development programs. Here's the list of  'Do's' and 'Don'ts' for parents (roughly translated):

Clube Atlético Paranaense Rules for Parents

  • Don't shout
  • Don't yell at me
  • Don't yell at my coach
  • Do respect my teammates
  • Do respect the other team
  • Do respect the referees
  • Don't lecture me after the match
  • Laugh and have fun. 
  • This is just a game and I will do my best
  • You and your kids don't play for the Furacão *

Here's the photo taken while he was talking about it. Unfortunately you cannot see the slide, so you'll just have to take my word for it!



* I added the last one myself. Furacão is the nickname for Atlético (it means 'the hurricanes'). The irony is that these kids DO play for the Furacão, but the same rules that should apply to parents in Canadian youth sport also apply here.

And Finally...
No class today. British weather this morning, so trying to learn to pronounce the word for umbrella, then go buy one. Going on a bus tour later, then to a World Cup exhibit just down from my apartment.


Friday 6 June 2014

Day 7 Bonus Post: Got my Ticket

Bring on Nigeria x Iran!!




Got my photo taken with World Cup Mascot!!





Ordered a vegetarian burrito and individual fillings in Portuguese (no photo of this major achievement)!!


And Finally...
What is going on with my ankle? Fine one day, the next day this:






C'mon Nigeria. Or Iran. Haven't decided.